Myanmar Musings

The 2005 edition of a Myanmar guidebook requests visitors to be careful about drawing locals into conversations about political issues, lest you compromise them and get them into trouble.  The ruling military junta suppressed all dissent and people were sent to forced labor camps or tortured in prisons for disagreeing with the government's line. During our short travels around the country, we were curious to see if and how things had changed, if the recent political developments and the nascent steps that have been taken towards transitioning to a civilian democracy have made any difference at all.
 
On our return to Yangon, a chance encounter at restaurant with a man who had spent over 20 of the last 30 years in prison gave us a chance to get a first hand answer to this question. This man had been arrested and imprisoned several times in the past few decades for taking part in anti-government demonstrations protesting human rights violations.   When he rolled up his shirt sleeve to show us evidence of torture that he underwent, it truly brought to life the pernicious nature of the junta.  Though released from prison not too long ago, even he clearly predicted a positive outlook for the future.  This and other conversations with random strangers seems to suggest that people are no longer paranoid about expressing their opinions freely. Other tangible evidence is in the form of photographs of Aung San Suu Kyi (along with that of her father General Aung San, a national hero) that hangs on the walls every place you go.  Obviously universally admired here, the people are no longer afraid of expressing this admiration openly. 
   
Articles in Myanmar Times seems to suggest that the democratic institutions are beginning to function as intended as well. The NLD ( National League for Democracy) now has representatives in parliament and is actively introducing bills (like providing total autonomy to universities) that will be voted upon and shape future government policy. All these are promising developments seem to indicate that the wheels towards a more open society are finally in motion.
 
But Myanmar has a lot of catching up to do compared to its neighbors.  After having traveled through some of the most wired countries in Asia, you suddenly notice how few people have mobile phones here. Forget wifi, even basic internet connectivity is not widely available in hotels ( except at high-end hotels, we are told) and internet cafes are few and far between.  Where connectivity does exist, it is extremely slow. In an age of global connectivity, this itself constrains people's access to information.
   
You also notice the total absence of multinational chains - no Starbucks, McDonalds or any other familiar logo even in big cities like Yangon or Mandalay. While not complaining about their absence per-se,  combined with a general paucity of decent mid-range restaurants and cafes, you at least start to think about them.  You dining options are between totally hole-in-the-wall places that serve decent food but in not so pleasant surroundings or fork out US dollar prices at high-end restaurants.  Both in Yangon and Mandalay, we came across few decent, mid-level restaurants in the center of the city. We wondered where the regular Joe here goes when he feels like a cuppa in the afternoon.  We did not find an answer to that question until we left.
 
One thing that affects you directly as a tourist is the ability to get cash out of an ATM, something you take for granted in most countries. In Myanmar your only source of funding is the US dollar notes you carry into the country and converting them at a bank or at the money changers. (Needless to say, credit card is not accepted anywhere) What is more peculiar is their insistence on accepting only spotlessly clean and crisp bills - a blemish on Benjamin Franklin's nose or a crease on his cheek (caused by a fold) and he is no longer acceptable.  Fully aware of this, prior to our departure from home we had made special trips to the bank to procure crisp notes and have been saving them carefully till we got here!   You of course cannot protest when they hand you mutilated and disgusting looking kyat (pronounced chat) notes in return!
 
The other strange thing we observed was how domestic air travel in Myanmar seems to operate in a very synchronized fashion. There are a few different airlines (Air Mandalay, Air Bagan, Asian Wings,  Yangon Airways etc.) but most seem to operate in the same the clockwise quadrilateral route of Yangon, Nyang U (Bagan), Mandalay and Heho (Inle Lake).  All of airlines depart from each of these locations around the same time and go through the same sequence.  So the airports gear themselves up at the appointed time for them to show up one after the other, process disembarking passengers and baggage, process boarding and departures and seem to be done for the day! 

This kind of coordination between airlines in conjunction with the itinerary of a typical tourist (who is using domestic flights) that allows for 2 days at each of the main cities results in a convoy effect.  You begin to notice familiar faces at the airport every other day or meet the same people at tourist destinations or restaurants in two different cities! Didn't I see you somewhere in Bagan? Weren't you at this restaurant in Mandalay 3 days ago? Facilities at most airports (except Yangon International) are quite basic, baggage handling is all manual and is delivered to you directly as it is unloaded and brought in to the arrivals hall.  

While there is usually an X-ray machine to put your hand-baggage through, unless you are carrying a gun or a knife they don't want to trouble you too much. Bottle of water? No problem. No need to take your your laptop out of its bag. And don't even think about taking off your shoes.  Wish we could go back to this kind of security in airports all over the world!